HIKING ALLEGHENY COUNTY PARKS

I never really hiked in the County Parks around Pittsburgh. That is until recently, within the past year or so. Growing up, these large, developed parks were places that had wave pools to visit in the summer, sled hills, ski slopes, and skating rinks for winter months, and a pretty nice duck pond or two to throw cubes of bread into before we knew any better about duck nutrition.

There are nine parks here in Allegheny County, and they have been a hidden gem to discover and spend time in during the pandemic. I’m pretty similar to my Dad in the way that I’ll set little challenges or projects to amuse myself and keep busy. I didn’t start off 2021 with the goal of visiting all of the County Parks within the first quarter. It was my loftier goal of hiking 500 miles during the course of the year that drew me to them; along with the quest for new and longer local trails. Trails that you don’t have to “fight for miles” on. By the end of January, I noticed that I already had a third of the parks under my hip strap, and by mid-February I was even closer, the goal forming in my mind.

Visiting these parks was a fun task for the winter months, and it’ll be interesting to see the differences in warmer weather -- the springtime green up. Allegheny County stretches to odd corners, even for this well-traveled Pittsburgh native, and a few of the new-to-me parks felt like an escape to the suburbs or an even more rural destination. I definitely uttered the misnomer, “we’re in the boonies,” a few times during my explorations.

HARRISON HILLS

Date of Hike: January 9

Mileage: 6.28

Wanting to explore somewhere “new” in the New Year and rack up some miles led Portland and I to Harrison Hills Park near New Kensington, PA on a Saturday in early January. Using the AllTrails app I found the Scout Trail loop that was close to six miles and merged with the Rachel Carson Trail (RCT) once or twice. The trails were easy to find, well blazed, although there were many times where the route cut in and out of the forest, passing through picnic areas, sports fields and shelters (common in the County Parks).

It was great to set boots on the ground on the RCT -- even briefly, since I’d like to make an attempt to complete 35.7 or so miles (of the 45 mile trail) in a single day later this year (although not as a participant in the official Rachel Carson Trail Challenge in June). The highlights of the loop route were the pond with a boardwalk and shelter, views of the Allegheny River, and, most excitingly, the remains of an old dumpsite that has been reclaimed by the forest, although it is still highly visible with glittering broken glass bottles, metal sinks, etc. There is a strict “no bottle hunting” policy, but it was fun to take a step or two off the trail (no more, to protect Portland’s paws!) and catch a glimpse and a photo of some vintage bottles -- some made locally!

NORTH PARK

Date of Hike: January 19

Mileage: 5.41

I’ll admit. Once I set foot on the RCT, I was thirsty for more. Portland and I ventured out to North Park on a weekday to find the starting (or ending) point of the trail and hike from there. I’ve visited North Park a lot through the years, hiking the 5 mile on-road loop trail around the lake, or taking my kayak out for an easy paddle to spot blue heron. Dinner and beers on the lakefront patio at Over the Bar (OTB) Bicycle Café are a favorite, and I’m eager to try the Cadence + Clubhouse café meets taproom at Pro Bike + Run at the other end of the lake.

A childhood story I like to tell as being ‘very traumatic’ happened in North Park when my parents took my sister and I on a bike ride and picnic as young children. I tipped over while trapped in a Cookie Monster kids seat on the back of my Mom’s rental bike, with no choice but to ride towards the ground, strapped to that goofy blue seat. North Park was also home to the county pool we visited most often growing up.

Our January hike started off on an easy boardwalk wildlife viewing area near the ice rink, where an older couple ahead of us were excitedly bird watching. Beyond the boardwalk, and across the street was the RCT Trailhead, with trail conditions a mix of mud and snow on that day. We had the trail mostly to ourselves as most of the park visitors were road walking for more favorable conditions. The trail was well blazed, and we looped back once we got to the lake, following other trails and ending our hike along the road to make up time before the early winter sunset. All through the few miles on the RCT I imagined a fun, full day of trekking the entire route with a few brave friends. Convincing friends to join me is much easier in my imagination!

*Kayaking photos taken in July 2019.

BOYCE PARK

Date of Hike: January 27, February 14 & 21

Mileage: 12.03 (cumulative)

The closest County Park to home, just over 20 minutes drive from my front door, with a well blazed labyrinth of trails for ‘choose your own adventure’ style hiking. I typically park in the lot by the historic Log Cabin and take off from there on one of the smaller trails spindling off on either side of the road. There is also a wider, gravel trail that heads uphill from this lot.

In late January, Portland and I explored the trails with our friend Beth, choosing one colorful blaze to follow and then another. Portland and I took a few snowy mushes on these trails in February, and I am constantly amazed at all the little corners of the forest where trails (and cross country ski tracks) wind through.

In the summer months, Boyce has a great hill of wildflowers that is fun to climb and wander through. This winter, I enjoyed views of the ski slopes, although I have never skied or snow tubed at Boyce.

*Summer/wildflower photos taken in 2020.

SETTLER'S CABIN

Date of Hike: February 2

Mileage: 7.52

It was Groundhog Day & Taco Tuesday when Portland, Beth, and I ventured out for a snowy hike at Settler’s Cabin in Oakdale, PA. I’d never visited Settler’s Cabin until last summer in berry picking season, collecting an entire Nalgene of blackberries. Of course, it looked wildly different now in the snow. We were a bit unprepared for the depths of the snow that had not yet been trampled and tamped down by other trail users. Lots of high stepping and sinking boots, but it was a beautiful day in the park. We followed the well-blazed Red Loop for most of the hike, after taking a wider trail that led towards the Panhandle Trail.

The best scenery was in the first half of the hike, through a gully with a creek and then a winding trail above another stream in the winter woods. Later, we came to the rusted remains of a gas well and panoramic views of Highway 376 and the strip mall development at Settler’s Ridge. We worked our way through picnic areas and sports fields, starting to rack up miles but deciding to stay on the trail rather than road walking it.

By the end, our legs were tired, hamstrings burning, and we’d missed turning points for connector trails that had been obscured by untouched snow. I joked that Beth wouldn’t hike with me again after that tiring hike, but we recovered over victory burritos at Moe’s (“Welcome to Moe’s!”) nearby. We were, somewhat pathetically, too tired for victory beers on that day.

SOUTH PARK

Date of Hike: February 19

Mileage: 3

After finding the Christmas tree graveyard in South Park just a few days after Christmas in 2020, I’m surprised I haven’t returned to hike this park more often. Portland and I did a few quick miles on the hillside trails near the ice rink on a cold and snowy day in February, after sushi lunch with our friend Jared. Thankfully, the hilly trails helped us warm up fast, and the trail was quiet except for a stretch along a residential road.

We didn’t make it as far as the buffalo viewing area or the duck pond on this walk, but I heard a very well told story about way back in the day when at least one bison escaped the enclosure and held a standoff with police. Unfortunately, I don’t think it ended well for the bison, but when I heard the story he was cast as a heroic and legendary character.

On this cold day, victory beers were definitely in order, so we headed just five minutes down the road to Spoonwood Brewing Company.

*Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures on February 19, so the pictures here are from our hike on December 28, 2020.

HARTWOOD ACRES

Date of Hike: February 27

Mileage: 3.72

Hartwood Acres County Park, in Allison Park, PA is about 30 minutes from home and what I always associate as the park with live concerts in the summer and large metal sculptures that we used to slide and play on as kids. I most recently saw the band Guster perform at Hartwood, with my family, back in August 2019. To my excitement, they played a cover of the theme from Top Gun, which of course, I recognized right away and had to explain to the rest of my family.

But who knew you could hike at Hartwood? Not this girl. There was actually a pretty great network of trails (including the ever popular, wide, road walking trail) that all spoked off from a very small parking lot near the Hartwood Mansion. Portland and I hopped on the purple trail first, choosing our own adventure on the first day that felt like a hint of spring. The snow was nearly melted, except on parts of the trail that were heavily shaded.

Since I didn’t really have any idea of the layout of trails here, I relied on the Gaia GPS app a lot, even though the trails were well blazed, there were many of them in different colors, sometimes at very short distances. It was here I spotted the first ticks of the year, both the Black-Legged (Deer) Tick, and the smaller black Groundhog Tick. I’ve been checking Portland, and myself ever since.

Towards the end of our loop, we passed a large dog park, a family of deer, and the horse cemetery before making our way back to the mansion and sculptures, each surrounded in very picturesque netted orange fencing. No sliding today, kids!

ROUND HILL

Date of Hike: March 3

Mileage: 4.01

I’ve visited Round Hill Park a few times in the past. It is near Elizabeth, PA and, perhaps, most well known for the exhibit farm with animals, which is surprisingly dog friendly. Portland famously got licked by a very friendly brown cow -- and was nearly head butted by a not so friendly goat. There’s also a large duck pond, playgrounds and a large well manicured grassy “round” hill. But can you hike there?

The trail maps advise that trails are unblazed, but I was able to pull up a pretty accurate route in Gaia. Unfortunately, when Portland, Jared, and I visited in early March, the large parking lot near the soccer field was locked, so we had to create parking spaces along the side of the road. The hike started out skirting the perimeter of a large hilly farming field that would typically be used to grow corn and other grains for the exhibit farm animals. It was an interesting route with a pretty view from the top, but definitely unblazed.

We cut through the field and across the road, following only GPS and sometimes the faintest of trails (deer trails), creating our own creek crossing and navigating up a pretty intense hillside. This is not the place I would suggest for a weekend family outing, but a great opportunity to experience less maintained trails and do a bit of bushwhacking. It seemed a bit like Jurassic Park, overgrown with downed trees and thorns, and my friend was sure that there was a possibility for bears -- to which I rolled my eyes.

We topped out of our climb, only to find ourselves in a small hilltop field, nowhere to go except gradually down. Luckily, we did find some trails in better condition that looked like they were most frequently used by quads and dirt bikes. I found a large turkey feather, but not the shed antlers I’ve been hoping for. The trail took us up to another large field and then down again, following nicer trails and then the thinnest deer trails to get back to the creek by the roadside. There was no crossing point here, or anywhere close by, but we decided we’d rather get our feet wet than to continue to hike through thorns and brush. We forged the river -- and then grabbed victory cones at Dairy Queen. My treat as a small apology to my friend and Portland for putting up with the conditions.

If you’re up for trying to rough it a bit, get in some terrain and brambles, use your compass, machete, GPS or x-ray vision, this is the spot for you. Otherwise, plan a day hike at any of the eight other county parks.

*Portland was licked by the cow in spring 2016.

DEER LAKES

Date of Hike: March 12

Mileage: 4.77

A springlike Friday drew Portland and I out to Deer Lakes near Tarentum, PA, to check out this new-to-us park and break in my new Danner hiking shoes. There was a large playground and developed walking trail around a few small lakes near the entrance to the park, with picnic groves and an observatory as you get further in. We parked in the Pike pavilion parking area -- many of their rentable shelters are named for types of fish -- and took off on a short trail that led to an expansive and hilly field. “The hills are alive…” Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music sang in my mind, as we broke out of the trees, and I fought the urge to run, arms out towards my nonexistent camera crew. I tried to shake flashbacks of Round Hill from my mind as we skirted the edge of the field, but quickly found a trail to duck onto.

The trails were well but somewhat confusingly blazed. From what I understand, some equestrian (?) group has gone through and added their own system of blazes in some places. Here, I was following the red trail, interspersed with garish blaze orange with neon green dot blazes that had me wondering if I might be in the middle of a paintball course. The neon faded soon enough, and it was fun exploring this unfamiliar park. We cut across roadways and passed only one trail runner during our hike. I counted a dozen or so ticks, mostly in an area where we saw deer. The trail terrain was easy and pleasant, nothing too special or scenic, but it was a surprise when we looked over and saw a horse watching us from inside his roped off yard! He and Portland had a little staredown and I wondered what would happen if the horse decided to follow us. He did not.

We made it back to the great field a little sooner than I’d wanted, so I took us toward what I thought might be the observatory -- straight trail leading up to a circular structure on GPS. Past the disc golf course that I’d love to come back and play, and onto an orange blazed trail that led us up to -- a strange checkered and graffiti covered water tower (?). Not the observatory. Oops. Of course, had I wanted to be sure where we were headed I could’ve checked it out, but a short out of the way exploratory hike was much more fun. Later, driving past the observatory, it was not a round building at all! I had pictured the telescope turrets that flank the observatory in Pittsburgh's Riverview Park or the famous Griffith Observatory in LA.

WHITE OAK

Date of Hike: March 24

Mileage: 4.64

The last of the County Parks to explore, but a pleasant surprise just 25 minutes or so from home. I’d never visited before, and was a little wary when I read the unblazed trail map on the County Parks website. The trails actually ended up being blazed (for the most part) and very easy to follow on GPS.

Portland and I met our friend Beth on a “hot” spring day, parking at the Angora Gardens parking area and getting sprayed up with tick ban (we only saw one tick). The garden was cute, but it was hard to tell exactly what it was or if it was a part of White Oak Park or not. I had a fun time warning Portland not to run himself into the electric fence that surrounds the property.

The trail picked up behind the park office building and wound its way along the hillsides and ridges of White Oak, PA. I was constantly surprised by the size of the park and the amount of trails that there were -- how easy it was to build a nice hike loop on the yellow and white blazes. We walked up into a large field that had more of the manicured, developed, county park feel with a ballfield and pavilions. It was here that I celebrated 100 miles hiked, so far, in 2021 with a funny little photoshoot and what I call Portland and I’s “yearbook” photo.

I’m definitely looking forward to future hikes and learning the trails a bit more in this park. We ended our loop with a short road walk -- the quickest route back to the car along the narrow shoulder of a somewhat busy road. The only disappointing part of the route. The park also had a Wedding Pavilion, which we walked past, and a large, unique playground in the lower part of the park.

The sunny spring day was celebrated with post-hike gelatos and a pup cup of custard from Rita’s Italian Ice.

---

One thing I noticed as I visited more of the County Parks is that they usually have a collection of businesses -- restaurants, pubs, breweries, and ice cream stops to help make a day out of a trip to the park. I think a fun idea, since most of these require a 30+ minute drive from home, is to set a budget and explore what each area has to offer. Local day tripping.

Each of the Allegheny County Parks provides many opportunities for outdoor recreation. Even if a hike through the woods isn’t your thing, these parks definitely have something for you! To learn more about the amenities at each park, visit their website.

Have you hiked the Allegheny County Parks? Which park or trail is your favorite? I’m amazed that until recently I had no idea what amazing places to hike these parks are. Even thinking locally, there is always so much to discover. Until next time, Live Wildly!