DAY 17: BOISE, ID

My earliest morning yet on this trip. A 5:00am alarm that I dreaded so much I lay awake and waiting just to avoid it's detonation. I felt like I barely slept. Each trip when I leave Oregon, I feel like a little piece of my heart gets left behind. The "Hearts in Oregon" bumper sticker that Liz sent to me when I got my new Subaru is really an accurate sentiment.

I was the only one up in the house (rightfully so), and tried to move around and pack up as quietly as possible. Christine, Liz's Mom had left out cinnamon raisin bagels for me, so I made one of those with cream cheese and a double brew of Keurig coffee in my travel mug, along with a banana for the road.

I loaded the car and got Portland ready, saying goodbye to Liz as I cleared out of her room, and she got up from bed to follow me out. She gave me a hug as I left, and in these strange times, I completely understand those that don't want to give hugs...but that makes the hugs that you do get all the more valuable and appreciated.

Portland got up into his upgraded, even cushier backseat, after Liz's family donated a dog bed to Portland's luxury travel accommodations, and we were off by 6:15am. I drove towards town, thinking that if it was meant to be, I would still drive right past Burrito Boy without a --- U Turn for the best burritos I've ever had! Yes, even their breakfast burritos. So, there I sat in their parking lot at 6:20am, ten minutes before they opened for the day.

I ordered a machaca steak breakfast burrito with eggs, pepper, onions, beans, cheese and green sauce. It was a great start to the long day of driving, only setting me back about 20 minutes in the end. I got back on the road as I finished my burrito, driving familiar routes and roads towards Springfield, where I took the turn onto Highway 126, a familiar road we've taken en route to adventures so often before.

A little ways up the highway, in the tiny towns along the McKenzie River, leading up to Willamette National Forest, I started to see the damage I'd already expected from very recent wildfires in this area. Wildfires happen every late summer/early fall in Oregon and other parts of the country, and they are devastating to personal property, wildlife habitat, etc.

A few days ago, in Portland, Maya had started to recite the story of Smokey the Bear, a darker edition than what I'd imagined. I never knew, or maybe didn't remember that he had been a bear cub orphaned in the woods, found hiding in a tree after a wildfire by some firefighters.

Here, large piles of burnt branches and trees were mounded on either side of the road, with fine brown ash covering the hillsides and forest floors. Clean up and remediation crews could be seen every few miles, working on removing debris and slowly but surely helping to get the area back towards a new normal.

The damage went on for miles and miles. Some swaths of houses had gone untouched by the flames, while others were demolished so entirely that only their chimney structures remained. Those had been spray painted with their corresponding house number so that addresses could be more easily identified. It was heartbreaking seeing all of those homes that had been destroyed, and all the beautiful trees. The smell outside was like a giant bonfire of wood and pine smoke, the morning after, the scent still lingering in the air. There were so many signs along the road thanking the firefighters and also one that really captured the Oregonian spirit for me, "It's all good," written on a singed piece of wood.

As I got into Willamette National Forest, it was a relief to see that much of the damage was outside of the park, and the beautiful towering pines of the National Forest were intact along with the Sahalie Falls trailhead, where I've hiked several times. The road to Cougar Hot Springs was closed for burnt log removal, so I'm not sure how much of that place was damaged.

The morning was a bit somber, driving through all the damage, and also remembering that a month ago today was when we lost Dad. I can't believe he's been gone a month already. I've been enjoying my trip, but sometimes it's hard not to miss and remember those I have lost in one way or another. I miss long drives to unexplored locations with my Dad, and I always think of his quest to see a prairie dog in the wild. I often think of one of our favorite sayings during a misadventure, "should've bought a squirrel," from the movie Rat Race. Luckily, I haven't really had to use that line on this road trip.

I made it back to Bend, coming through Deschutes National Forest over the Northern Cascade Mountains and retracing some of the steps from our recent stay at the Campfire Hotel. It was just after 9am when I passed the last remaining Blockbuster video in the country. The route back, across Oregon and into Idaho was the same, so at least I knew what I was in for. It wasn't bad though, considering the hundreds of miles I had to travel before getting into Boise. Seven and a half hours on the road today.

It was nice to drive alone and have time to think after the long week spent with friends, and I listened to my playlist for most of the day. There were a few calls, when service allowed, catching up with my Mom, who later called back to tell me that my mail in ballot had been received- already! I also talked with my friend Dan, in New York City, for just a bit. Always so great to catch up and talk with him -- I haven't seen him since January.

There were crazy sights along the road, and it was always one tradition for Dad and I to talk about things we saw on the side of the road, or to question things we imagined seeing. One of my imaginings from today, "was that a dead road runner on the side of the highway?!," or, how long had the deer been lying by the roadside so that just a pinkish red ribcage and spinal column was all that remained. Sorry if that is a disturbing mental image -- I found it fascinating!

I coordinated on and off with Beth, my friend from Pittsburgh, who happened to be in Boise with our friend Keri Ann. I didn't want to miss the opportunity to meet up, but by the time I reached my tiny house AirBnb on a little farm with chickens, it was just two hours before sundown.

I checked out the cute tiny home, leaving Portland in the car since there was an excited small black and white dog running around outside. My host, Kate, called out a greeting as she passed by doing chores around the houses, and I said hello. I brought a few things inside, made some spiced green tea with the electric kettle, and snapped a few pictures. There was a note to use the filtered water pitcher in the fridge because of the high mineral and sulfur content of the water here in Idaho. This is due to the geothermal activity in the area (the same thing that causes hot springs!).

Here in Idaho, it seems to take forever to get anywhere, but maybe it's just a misperception since I don't know the area well. We drove about ten minutes to the trailhead for the Camel Back trails, situated around and on top of big tan hills that were completely covered in desert sage, dried out flowers, those yellow flowered plants that were now soft and wispy and white, and a hay-like grass that screamed allergies! I took an allergy pill as soon as I got back to the tiny house. We

We walked the maze of trails in a network up and across and around the sequence of hills that resembled camel humps in both shape and color. The dusty path was a little slippery to descend at times, but it was mostly an easy and enjoyable hike in the late afternoon warm sun. It was nice to be able to hike in a t-shirt! The trails area abutted a large community park in a cute neighborhood. We walked into the green grass where people were lounging and playing, and it was so strange to walk on grass after the desert terrain of the hike.

One thing that seemed to be a must-do at Camel Back was to climb the long flight of steep stone steps up to the top view. We climbed the steps, even though we'd already seen the amazing view of downtown Boise, and the surrounding neighborhood blanketed by still beautiful, colorful autumn leaves. The climb was challenging, but I think the stairs themselves are the real draw. They're massive and made of stone, with large flat boulders lining either side and bulky twisted metal cables draped and set into railings for support.

We returned to the car and loaded up, Portland getting a rawhide to enjoy on the way home. At the AirBnb, we got a bit more settled and I changed and did a little work on my phone. Portland ate a bowl of kibble and canned food, and at six o'clock, we headed back into downtown Boise to meet Beth and Keri Ann for drinks and dinner on the sidewalk patio at 10 Barrel Brewing Company. This is a brewery I originally thought was based in Oregon, and have long avoided since they are owned by Budweiser. I'm glad I finally tried it tonight.

It was fun to catch up with friends from home in a different city, and we had a nice beer and dinner although the service was terrible, taking forever. Portland was pretty well behaved in his blue puff coat and a fleece blanket for the ground. I got the Pray for Snow winter ale, which is not my typical choice of beer style, but perfect for the mood I was in today. Dinner was a turkey club with sweet potato fries, and the club had unique ingredients like Kalamata olive spread, and tomato jam.

We talked about their plans while staying in town, and the highlights of my travel so far. There are two many favorite and funny moments. After dinner, we had hoped to make another stop for a drink, but they had to get going. Keri Ann, a native Idahoan, mentioned Freak Alley Gallery, which was right around the corner. We walked over into the well lit gallery that is just covered in murals of different sizes and styles by many artists. It is the kind of place that I imagine is always changing, and we spent some time wandering this unique exhibit space and taking some pictures.

Then, it was time to part ways and I drove a block over to Edge Brewing Company, where it looked like they were ready to close for the night. The bartender welcomed me in, and we chatted on and off about my travels and their slow Monday night. Their huckleberry cider had been what drew me in, and it was good with an earthy flavor from the huckleberries, but a bit sweeter than I would have hoped for. I didn't stay long since I was their only customer, but it was a nice stop for a nightcap. All through downtown Boise I felt a little like I was in the movie Minority Report (is that the right movie?) where everything was being catered to me. Lord Huron was playing outside of 10 Barrel, and on the way in to Edge, a Guster song that I like. Both pretty rare artists to hear on the street.

On the way home, I made a stop at Walmart that was less than five minutes from the tiny house. I picked up a new air pump for the air mattress since we're camping tomorrow night, and some canned Starbucks coffees for emergency caffeine.

At the tiny house, I got ready for bed, trying to use the drill to wind down the bed from the wall on a pulley system with a carabiner. The drill didn't seem to be working great, so I got it part way down and unclipped the carabiner, lowering it to the floor. It was a comfortable bed, but took up nearly every inch of floor space when it was lowered. Good thing I had done my yoga first! Portland didn't know what to do, surprising me by somehow climbing back under the bed and I had to drag him out and show him how to get on the strange bed.

I turned the space heater on full blast remembering the A Frame in Stanley, but didn't need it tonight. I started typing, but quickly fell asleep. Another long drive tomorrow.