DAY 8: BEND, OR & SMITH ROCK

The morning started early in Bend. Nice to wake up to girl talk, laughing together over a slight misadventure involving a half missing bed sheet. There was no going back to sleep, but that's the way it should be on a girls trip. We got ready and packed up some breakfast to take to the canteen, where the front desk attendant microwaved bagels for us that had traveled from Moe's in Boulder, and we drank local coffee from the lobby. We ate our bagels and cream cheese and stopped back to at the room before taking a walk over to the Gear Peddler, an outdoor gear outfitter and consignment shop a few blocks from our place. Liz wanted to find some hiking shoes, and I am always looking for good discounted gear.

We didn't find anything at the store, but we did reconsider our layering for our hike at Smith Rock State Park this afternoon. It was cold out! The temperatures were dropping throughout the day, with the high in the thirties and ending up in the upper twenties by bedtime, continuing to drop. It seemed very cold for Oregon. Back at the hotel room, I packed my day pack for the hike and our picnic, and we loaded Portland into the back of Liz's car and hit the road.

On the way out of town, we made a quick detour for a little shopping -- something I always wish we had more time for. Liz had some luck, and I got a new multi use scarf/mask, and did a little trail research on All Trails while we were in the store. For a moment, the blustery grey day had me rethinking our hiking plan, considering a different trail, but on we went! Smith or Bust!

It was a half an hour from the Campfire Hotel to Smith, in Terrebonne, OR, and on the way I caught sight of a barren pine tree on the side of the highway that was completely decorated with shoes in place of needles. I wish I had been faster on the cut off, because it was certainly a photo opportunity. Maybe later.

At Smith Rock, the cooler temps and grey weather hadn't deterred any of the crowds, the parking lot was nearly full and we parked near the turn around loop at the end and got ready to hike. I was thankful for my warm beanie hat and windbreaker, and Portland wore his blue puff coat that has become part of his signature look.

We had hiked this trail together before, on our last trip to Bend back in late summer of 2018, and Liz always calls a strenuous hike a "death march," even if she has fun in the end. She doesn't love hiking, but I'm always so happy that she sticks it out for me. We walked the long route through the parking lot and down the Canyon Trail to the bridge that crosses the Crooked River, a gateway for all who hike or climb here. We debated over doing the same direction we'd taken the last time, or going backwards for a different experience. We decided to keep it the same, first following the River Trail around the base of the rocks, warming up, and then climbing the back switchbacks of Misery Ridge. The River Trail was definitely the most busy section of the hike, and many people had dogs with them on this Saturday.

Hiking here at Smith was one of the single most anticipated plans for me on this trip. The hike we did a few years ago was one of my all time favorites, and I've known I would return as soon as I could. I would love to climb here one day (I WILL climb here one day), and had researched half or full day guided climbing sessions for this trip. I decided I would rather hike the trail with Portland. I'm out of climbing shape since COVID, anyways, and have never done any outdoor climbing before.

We hiked along the river at the base of the famous, towering rock walls of different shapes and colors and textures. We passed a lot of climbing schools giving instruction on different pitches, and I thought, that could be us. The trail was a bit dusty, with sections of deeper sand, which made it difficult to maintain a strong footing when trying to maneuver Portland around other hikers and dogs, and I bit it on the sloped trail edge once, my feet slipping out from under me. The shrub vegetation was similar to Antelope Island in Utah with desert sage and the yellow flowering bushes, with more pine trees, juniper, and chartreuse colored fruticose lichen -- ever my favorite since a camping trip at Paulina Lake in Newberry Crater in 2009 where my friend Allan and I, having just met, burned the lichen on our campfire to see if it would change the color of the flame.

Even on this chilly fall day, we had a very calm and pleasant hike among the rocks, making a few stops for pictures inspired by the landscape. The trail lead us to the Misery Ridge Trail. Here, switchbacks cut up the hill next to a rock formation called Monkey Face because of it's resemblance to just that. I think we both remembered this part of the hike as being much more difficult than it seemed today. Whether we are in better shape, or benefitted from the colder weather, or, as one man coming down the trail said to me, "cheating" by having my dog pull me up the hill; it wasn't so bad.

At the top of the switchbacks, amid snow flurries, the landscape below just looks unreal because it is too beautiful. The winds and cold really cut in up here, but we toughed it out for a few minutes of picture taking at Monkey Face before I stopped to add layers and put Portland's coat back on.

Thankfully, on the other side of the rocks along the crest, it wasn't so bad. The wind had been blocked and we were able to enjoy and not rush through the hike. After more photo opportunities, we found what we'd been waiting for. A nice spot on the top of the rocks for a little picnic snack of Wheat Thins and Vermont goat cheese with marionberry. I cracked open a can of Brew Gentlemen's General Braddock IPA for a Pittsburgh victory beer in one of my favorite places.

We couldn't sit for too long because we started to get cold, but we had been having fun trying to capture the moment and make silly Boomerang videos of Portland jumping to catch a cracker in his mouth.

On our way down. there were a lot of wooden stairs mixed with the dusty and sandy trail, and we saw a couple moving very slowly. The woman seemed to be so terrified of the tall heights that she had her eyes trained only on the ground and the man she was with pointed out each step to take. They had stepped aside to let us pass and I asked them if they were okay to get down as I passed. Ever since taking the NOLS Wilderness First Aid course last year, I've felt more compelled to check in on other hikers that look like they might need help. Of course, they refused, but I made the effort to ask.

We worked our way down the trail, remembering certain places from our last hike here, and enjoying each beautiful angle of scenery. Smith is so good for that with the dramatic rock shapes, the Crooked River, and path of the trail, each one complementing the other and adding to the beauty of this place.

We finished our hike and took the Chute Trail switchback shortcut back up to the top near the parking lot. A man with a friendly tan pit bull without a leash saw us taking pictures beside the trail and I tried to redirect Portland's attention. The guy asked if Portland was friendly, and I explained that he doesn't like to be surprised, while on his leash especially. Somehow the man still let his dog walk right up to Portland and I held him until the dog went away. He doesn't hate other dogs, but he usually takes a little time to warm up to them.

We left Smith Rock and I drove Liz's car back toward Bend. We remembered seeing the Crescent Moon Alpaca Farm and boutique and stopped inside to look at all the pricy and beautiful woven goods. We didn't find anything we needed to have. I caught a picture of an alpaca outside, making the joke, "You can call me, Al." Get it?

We tried to find and take a picture of the tree decorated in shoes, but along the highway it was impossible to stop, so we routed toward the Old Mill District of Bend, and stopped for takeout yumm bowls from Cafe Yumm! Liz introduced me to yumm bowls years ago on a trip to Oregon. They are rice bowls with black beans, tomato, avocado, cilantro, black olives, cheese, maybe jalapenos and a signature tahini "Yumm sauce" that ties it all together. They are a great meal, I've made the sauce at home before and I've also bought and froze it to take on flights back to Pittsburgh in the past.

We swung past Avid Cider Co. on the way back through the Old Mill District and I picked up a few cans to go since it was so busy inside. At the hotel, we enjoyed our Yumm Bowls and I drank a watermelon rhubarb cider from Avid before we changed and headed to the hot tub to relax after our hike in the cold.

The hot tub was wonderful, and while we were hanging out there we met a group of sisters in town for the weekend from Idaho. One of them came in and immediately jumped into the swimming pool, which actually was very warm and comfortable, even in the cold temperatures. I had to try it. We stayed and chatted with the girls for a bit, talking about traveling cross country and my blog, and they grabbed a Bluetooth speaker and played bluegrass music.

Eventually, we went back to the room to change and get ready for dinner. Relaxing for a bit in the room before driving downtown. Stopping out by the fire pit to use the s'mores kits we'd picked up at check in. It would have been great to walk, but we wanted to dress up and the temperatures were continuing to drop. In town, we put our names on the list at Wild Rose, a Thai restaurant we had enjoyed a few years ago. Then, we walked a few blocks over to the Dogwood Cocktail Cabin, a place we'd passed last night that was so cute and so "Bend". We had a short wait for social distancing of tables, but looked at the menu while we waited and then ordered bacon wrapped dates with goat cheese and pomegranate for an appetizer. I got a mezcal cocktail called Up in Smoke, and Liz got an espresso martini but was really craving hot cocoa. Dogwood was such a cozy cocktail bar I would have loved to stay longer, with their warm, dim lighting, exposed brick walls and natural decorations and art. Skulls, taxidermy, natural wood tables, and a large mural of human animal crossbreeds gathered to dance in the forest moonlight.

Our table at Wild Rose Northern Thai was ready earlier than expected, so we had to run back over earlier than our quoted wait time. We ordered plates to share, including a pot of Tom Kha soup -- a favorite, basil pork, and wide street noodles with sweet garlic sauce on a bed of romaine. The food was delicious, if the service was a little poor. I got a gin basil smash cocktail, but Liz waited forever for her Thai iced tea. We ate and had so many leftovers to take back to the room. I bought dinner tonight, saying that it was Dad's treat. One of his great traditions was to always send us off with $100 to treat our friends or hosts during each trip. It was a way for him to be involved in our travels and make sure that, even as adults, we were doing our part to be polite and pay thanks for hospitality. We would always send him a picture and a thank you.

After a short drive back to the hotel, and a bit of digesting, I was ready to get back in the hot tub before they shut down at 10pm. Liz didn't want to go back out in the cold, but I wasn't ready to call it a night. I went back out to find the hot tub all to myself, but soon a trio from Utah joined me and a group in town from Portland after that. Luckily, it was a big hot tub. Friends are always made in hot tubs on cold mountain nights, and we shared travel stories and I talked a bit about traveling cross country and visiting their respective hometowns.

Talking to the Utah-natives, I learned more about the sand fly "no see-ums" at Antelope Island, and I was thankful not to have experienced them. I also learned that the section of I-80 I took through Wyoming is one of the most frequently closed, and that the wooden barricades seen on the hillsides along the highway are to prevent large snow drifts from blowing onto the road.

A boxed whiskey, provided by the Utahans could be shared in Covid-safe shots, and I stayed out talking to the group longer than I would have expected. They did not shut down at 10pm. It was nice to talk to other travelers and hear their different experiences and points of view. The Utah group had come to work at a CBD processing place for a few days or weeks, and the Portlanders were celebrating the birthday of a friend.

Eventually, I made my escape to return to the warm room to type. It was getting late and I was afraid I would doze off in bed so I layered up and borrowed the camp blanket from the room, stepping just outside to the fire pit that was still lit, after hours. The campfire group seemed a little more rough around the edges, but friendly. Starting to ask if I was a fed as I typed from the other side of the large fire. I think it's a mark of a very cool hotel when everyone wants to be social and talk to others rather than being closed off and quiet.

Some of the campfire-goers were locals, return guests, staying at the hotel for a weekend staycation. They knew a little more about this brand new hotel that had just opened earlier this month. But I needed to work and not be social, even when it came to answering questions about my travels and blog. I found a moment to step away back into the room and got as much writing done as possible before...dozing...off...to sleeeeeeep.